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The Boone Trail
The earliest known
path through Southwest Virginia was an ancient buffalo and Indian trace.
When and who the first white man to travel over this trace we have no way
of ascertaining at this late date. That hunters had been on this trace
much earlier than most historians think can be proven by the Journal of
Dr. Thomas Walker when he was commissioned by the Loyal Land Company in
1750 to make an exploration of lands which they had been granted. On April
9, 1750, Dr. Walker makes this entry in his Journal:
"We travel to a
river, which I suppose to be that which the hunters call Clinche's River,
from Clinch, a hunter who first found it."
This entry shows
beyond doubt that the trace and river were known to hunters prior to 1750.
Later in the 1760's when long hunts became more profitable and more frequent
this ancient trace became known, far and wide, as the Hunters' Trace, and
the very word "Hunters'" still clings as an identifying name for certain
places such as Hunter's Valley in Scott County, Virginia.
This trace, as all
roads do, had several converging paths leading into it. The first long
hunts were organized along the New River and later on Holston River, near
Chilhowie. From these points three paths were well known. One led from
the Holston by way of Saltville down through Elk Garden to Castlewood,
the second from Abingdon through Little Moccasin Gap to Castlewood. The
third ran from Abingdon via Bristol and down Reedy Creek and veered northwest
before reaching Long Island (Kingsport) across Pine Mountain through
Moccasin Gap, linking up with the main Hunters
Trace at Little Lick (Duffield), where it passed over Kane's Gap onto Wallens
Creek and down the Powell Valley to Cumberland Gap. This latter path later
became the main branch of the Great Wilderness Road.
The first two paths
which converged at Castlewood to form a single trace from that place through
Powell Valley to Cumberland Gap ran down the brow of a low hill on the
south side of Clinch River at Dungannon, north of the present bridge and
was shown on the first map of the area made by Daniel Smith in 1774 as
"Hunter's Ford". The crossing later became known as "Osborne's Ford" after
Stephen Osborne settled at the site. From Hunter's Ford the path led down
a valley on the north side of Clinch River between Nuckner's Ridge
and Stone
Mountain, and known to this day in Scott
County as Hunter's Valley. It crossed Big Stony Creek at a place once known
as KA, Virginia, then out Hunter's Valley through Rye Cove to Sunbright,
and across Kane's Gap onto Wallen Creek. At Little Flat Lick all three
traces became one before entering Kane's Gap, and thence down Powell Valley
to Cumberland Gap.
Daniel Boone was
familiar, no doubt, with all three traces. Boone's first trip into Southwest
Virginia, was probably about 1767 when he camped at Abingdon and named
it Wolf Hills. He came into the Valley of the Holston a number of times
in 1767 and 1768.
Daniel Bryan, Boone's
nephew and namesake, in 1843, wrote to Dr. Lyman C. Draper, the following
account of Boone's trip through this section into Holston Valley and on
into Kentucky. This trip is certainly that made by Boone in 1769, for it
was John Finley, a noted long hunter whose acquaintance Boone had made
in Braddock's Army and who first told Boone of Kentucky, who led him through
Cumberland Gap in 1769, Boone having missed the Gap on two previous searches.
Bryan's description of the route follows:
"Boone agreed to
go and took John Stewart, as his companion, John Finley, James Holden,
James Mooney and William Cooley, six in all."
"On the first day
of May, 1769, started from Boone's on the Head of Yadkin they took their
course westwardly crossing the Blue or Big Mountain to the three forks
of New River lower down called Kanaway, thence over Stone Mountain to a
place called the Stares (Stairs); thence over the Iron Mountain into Holston
Valley, then across the valley to Moccasin Gap in the Clinch Mountain.
I, Daniel Bryan have traveled the same route. They then continued their
route or course westwardly crossing Walden's Ridge, and Powell Mountain
in to Powells
Valley, then down the Valley leaving Cumberland
Mount but a little to their right, so on to Cumberland Gap."
(Draper Mss)
Daniel Bryan here
traces Boone's first trip over the entire distance of the Wilderness Road.
In 1773, Boone,
accompanied by Benjamin Cutberth went to Kentucky to hunt and no doubt,
to locate a place for his intended settlement. It was on the return from
this trip that Boone met with Captain William Russell and David Gass at
Castlewood, and induced them to join him in an attempted settlement in
Kentucky.
Returning to the
Yadkin Valley, Boone sold his farm and on September 25, 1773, started with
his party of settlers to Kentucky. The Bryan party, Boone's relatives,
were to rendevous with him in Powell Valley and make the most dangerous
part of the journey together.
Somewhere in the
vicinity of Abingdon, Boone sent his son, James, with John and Richard
Mendenhall, across country to inform Russell and Gass that the party was
on their way and to get flour, tools, and cattle for the settlement, either
at Castlewood, or along the way, the little party was joined by Isaac Crabtree
and a boy by the name of Drake, son of Joseph Drake, who was killed by
Indians at Boonesboro in 1778. Both of these young men lived with their
parents on the road leading from the Holston to the Salt Works (now Saltville).
It is the belief of
this writer that this party traveled from
Abingdon to Castlewood, through Little Moccasin Gap, much as the road runs
today.
Leaving Captain
William Russell's place at Castlewood, along with his son, Henry Russell
and two Negro servants belonging to Russell, the party started forward
on a section of the old Hunters Path previously described.
They were to join Boone's main party in Powell
Valley. They traveled down the south side of Clinch River, crossing Hunter's
Ford, through Hunter Valley and across Powell Mountain at Kane's Gap, onto
the head of Wallens Creek, when darkness came upon them and they went into
camp at the old ford of Wallen's Creek on October 9, 1773. At daybreak
on the next day, as everyone knows, the small party was set upon and massacred
by the Indians, with the exception of Isaac Crabtree and one of the Negro
slaves.
Logical reasoning
tells us that Boone did not travel to Castlewood with his main party, or
else he would not have sent his son to inform Russell and Gass of his movements.
It is the belief of this writer that Boone and his
main party used the third artery described
as one of the converging paths of the old Hunters Trace, and this is also
the consensus of the late R. M. Addington, in his History of Scott County,
Virginia. Addington details this route through Scott County, and I quote
herewith:
"It is not possible
with the data at hand, to trace with absolute certainty, the location of
the Kentucky Path at every point throughout its length. Like other roads,
both then and now, it was subject to such alterations as suited the fancy
of convenience of those who traveled over it, and divergence was, of course,
always possible between the "gaps". Moccasin Gap, was no doubt, reached
from the Holston settlements by more than one way. In general, however,
the following description of the Kentucky Path may be taken as fairly accurate
in so far as its passage through Scott County is concerned. It passed from
Shelby's Fort (now Bristol) down Reedy Creek to the Blockhouse. Boone's
original place of rendezvous, however, did not usually take him as far
west as the site of Kingsport. He traveled down Reedy Creek to the neighborhood
of Peltier, and then turned north to the Virginia- Tennessee boundary line,
thence by the way of the Blockhouse to the ford just above Holston Ridge.
From this ford he took a northwest course, passing over Little Pine Mountain
at a point where its elevation has been greatly reduced by Big Moccasin
Creek. He then passed through Big Moccasin Gap, the great eastern gateway
of the Kentucky Path. Thence up Little Moccasin Valley to the low divide
which separates Little Moccasin from Troublesome Creek, and passed along
the south side of a limestone hill to the north of the late J. M. Horton
residence, until it reached a narrow ravine at Horton's Chapel. Here it
dropped down the ravine to the ford at Speer's Ferry. Persons yet alive
remember and point out the depression of the old Trace where it passed
along the disc of the limestone ridge from the old Virginia and Southern
depot to Horton's Chapel. (See deeds Michael Darter, George Graham and
George George).
"After crossing
Clinch River at Speery's Ferry, the path passed up the west bank of the
same to the Ford of Stock Creek." (Present site of Clinchport). From Clinchport
it followed the meanders of Big Stock Creek up almost to the Natural Tunnel.
Here it turned to the left around Tunnel Hill by way of Horton's Summit,
to the Little Flat Lick (now Duffield), near the new schoolhouse at Duffield.
It may be stated in the connection that foot travelers and pack horse trains
often passed up the Devil's Race Path Branch to the top of Purchase Ridge,
and then descended into the valley of the North Fork of Clinch, near the
Little Flat Lick. Little Flat Lick it seems was one of the best known places
on the Kentucky Path. Not one of the early travelers over the Path, who
has left an account of his itinerary, has failed to mention Little Flat
Lick.
"From Little Flat
Lick, there seems to have been, at least, two ways of reaching Powells
Valley. One of these, and this was probably the oldest, passed over Powells
Mountain at or near Kane's Gap, and descended into Powells Valley not far
from the head of Wallen's Creek, where Scott's Fort was located. The other,
and this was no doubt, the route taken by wagons, passed from Little Flat
Lick down the valley to the North Fork of Clinch, by way of Pattonsville,
over Powell Mountain to Stickleyville very much as the present wagon road
runs."
After the massacre
of Boone and Russell's sons it is a well established fact that Daniel Boone
brought his family and his brother, Squire Boone, back to Castlewood and
lived in a cabin on the farm of Captain David Gass. In 1774 he was in command
of troops at Moore's and Blackmore's Forts on the Clinch. The court of
Washington County, Virginia, invested him with the rank of Lieutenant and
then Captain of Militia, the only military rank he ever held.
It was from Castlewood
in 1774 that Daniel Boone and Michael Stoner were sent to warn land surveyors
in Kentucky of a possible war by the Shawnee Indians. This time, from best
evidence available, they traveled through Pound Gap in Wise County, which
Boone called "Sounding Gap", to the falls of the Ohio and back through
Cumberland Gap to Castlewood.
In the early spring
of 1775, Daniel Boone and a party of about thirty men blazed a trail from
the Holston into Kentucky. This road was no doubt the one described by
Addington, and it was only a trail, suitable for pack horses and foot travelers,
and not for wagons, except from the Holston to Martin's Station in Lee
County. (Site of Jonesville) It was over this route that Boone set out
from Castlewood in the spring of 1775 to found the permanent settlement
of Boonesboro.
Historical Sketches
of Southwest Virginia, Number 12, 1978, pages 1 to 4.
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